The sewing pattern
To make your reversible bikini panties, you need a panty pattern. If you don’t have one, you can download my reversible panty pattern in size 38, then just follow the video tutorial to make it step by step or read the rest of this blog article 🙂
Pay attention to the choice of fabric, it’s very important! I recommend that you use a bi-stretch fabric made of polyester or polyamide and elastane or simply Lycra (it is a registered trademark)
For the elastic band, I use laminate. It’s a rubber elastic that has been specially designed for swimsuits and I have good news for you: it’s very cheap!
For supplies, you will need a rotating cutter, cutting mat, erasable ink pencil, scissors, pins, thread and needle.
I use the Brother 4234D overlock machine because it is the most practical machine to work with this material, but you can use your machine with an extensible stitch: zigzag stitch, overlock stitch, overlock stitch.
Of course, we’ll start with the cut. We pin our first pattern piece on our fabric which is folded in two places against each other, paying attention to its positioning in case of a pattern at the joints. We carry it forward and cut it without forgetting our sewing margins. Mine are quite approximate because the overlock machine cuts the fabric at assembly. If you sew by machine, make sure they are equal everywhere.
We do the same thing for the second pattern piece and we’ll come back and cut a front and a back again, either in the same fabric or in another fabric to have two bottom of jerseys in one! So you should get these four pieces.
We start by putting our parts in front of each other and pinning them to the thighs. We do the same for our back parts.
We will now assemble our parts along the pins using a stretch stitch or overlock machine, then iron with laminate or elastic.
I advise you to test your stitch on a fabric drop before you start on your final parts to make your tension adjustments and see if the fabric reacts well to your stretch stitch.
To fix the laminate, pass it under the presser foot of the machine and prick it with an extensible point, taking care not to pull it. We only accompany him.
We will now make the side seams. To do this, we will stack our front and rear parts and unfold their ends so that they are right against each other.
We pass the sides that we have just pinned to the machine, always with an extensible point.
And you should get this. Don’t worry if you don’t see a laminate, during the first shooting, I forgot to put it down!
We’re going to move on to the next-to-last step of the assembly. For that, we turn our pieces over on the right side and we’re going to come and roll up our back piece until we have our panties on the wrong side.
At the belt level, we have four layers but we will only pin those at the ends.
We pass our pinned part once in the machine to assemble our two layers, and we will prick a second time with the laminate. To sew a little further than our two pinned layers, we gently pull the fabric as shown on the video, but we don’t go all the way around.
We put our panties back upright but we turn our piece up before this time. The two layers at the ends are pinned again, assembled by machine and ironed with the laminate.
Once the U-turn is over, we turn our panties over again.
To assemble the crotch, we’ll come and stitch a few points on the side.
Then, we will come and get the back of our gusset through the opening we just created and bring it onto the front gusset so that they find themselves right against right.
We can only highlight the gussets without necessarily turning the panties completely upside down, not like I did on the video, to avoid pulling too much on the opening we made.
We pin our two layers together and machine them, then put our panties back on the right side. We close our opening by hand with an invisible dot. If you don’t know how to do it, I invite you to watch my video on sewing an invisible stitch. It’s very easy 🙂
Your bikini bottom is now finished!