The myth of lace
Hello, duvets (and cousets), have you ever sewn lace? I have the feeling that a myth has been built around this historically noble material. When I posted a lace panty on a Facebook group, some cousins told me “It must be hard, what a job! “, but very sincerely, it’s more about patience than difficulty, so I’m sharing all my secrets with you!
There are really tools I couldn’t do without to sew lace, and I’m not sure they’re the ones used by professionals. I might even make them scream, but hey, I like the result and these tools make my life easier.
6. The ironing board and iron
As with any work, ironing each step of your garment will help you get a clean result, but go easy and with a wet pad (a piece of fabric) so as not to burn your lace!
5. Scissors and quick release
Until then, I’m breaking down a new open door! But scissors and quick release are your best allies to remove your threads from the frame (oh yes, you will build!). These two tools will therefore contribute to the cleanliness of your work.
4. Thread and needle
But wouldn’t she be laughing at us? This is the basis of sewing with a thread and a needle.
And no, I’m not kidding, since it’s all your work that you’re going to build (roughly sew) by hand! You will finally be able to take out these poor quality reels that you bought one euro for every ten and that you regret because they ruin your life when you sew with a machine with a thread that breaks, that makes knots,…
3. The sewing machine, or even the overlock machine
The sewing machine is a great invention, and it is really essential to put on the elastics. We also like it because it allows us to assemble and make beautiful finishes.
You can eventually use the overlock machine to assemble some parts, but it is clearly not your best friend in lingerie. It reminds me a little of an elephant who wants to lie on a deckchair: it’s not very suitable. But you should never say never, especially if you sew something other than lace. In the standardised lingerie, you can see some overlock seams (the legend says that I went to Etam, that I turned all the panties inside out before leaving), but I think it it itches a little…
2. Erasable ink pencil
I have dithered a lot about the place that the erasable ink pencil would occupy because, frankly, I find myself very handicapped without it. Then I thought about it, and I thought that the top 1 of the ranking was even more essential to me.
I’ve heard of a very accurate chalk pencil, but I’ve never bought one, because I’m tired of buying! It has been a long time since I got rid of chalk and switched to erasable ink pencil (steam or wet sponge) first by laziness on materials such as cotton and other non-stretchable and rigid materials, then by necessity on living materials such as jersey, muslin, silk, lace.
You will quickly realize that the pattern pieces for lingerie garments are small and that the pencil helps to transfer the pattern as accurately as possible.
1. Rotary cutter and cutting belt
Tadam! Never without my rotary cutter and cutting mat for the simple (and good) reason that the material does not move when you put the rotary cutter on it. If it gets caught, change the blade! It is by far an indispensable tool, not to mention the healing mat that protects your table and blade.
If you are already sewing, you have probably already thought: “Is it normal that I spend more time cutting than sewing? What’s this scam? ». Well, frankly, the rotary cutter saves you a lot of frustration and time. The carpet cost me less than 30 euros on Amazon, and the rotary cutter about 10 euros. Well, it’s like criteriums, Brita coffee makers, razors and so on, it’s the refills that cost money.
And concretely, how to sew this lace?
What does it mean to build? It is simply the action of sewing roughly by hand without making a knot at the end of the thread.
In lingerie, many pieces are small and to obtain a clean and regular result, it is better to build before going to the sewing machine. You will have a better control of the precision by hand and building will allow you to hold the fabric in place.
We can build:
- The hems
- An assembly seam
- The beginning of an elastic band to hold it in place
I don’t know if that word exists, but it’s the opposite action once you’ve gone through the machine. Arm yourself with scissors and uncouple quickly and go easy so as not to make a hole.
If you make a hole, don’t panic, it can be fixed, don’t throw it all away!
When you switch to the machine, you can use various stitches. Here are my little favorites:
- The triple zigzag stitch, single jersey needle: by far my favorite stitch of all time! It’s an extensible point. I use it to apply the elastics and to sew some hems.
- The elastic triple stitch, single jersey needle: This is also an stretch stitch. I use this stitch to assemble two pieces together. This is a bit like the equivalent of the straight point in terms of appearance, but extensible.
- The straight stitch, double needle: This is a non-stretchable stitch, but made extensible by the double needle. I use it mainly for jersey when making a men’s boxer shorts for example, on the hems and to topstitch certain areas and obtain pretty finishes.
- 4-thread overlock: This is a base stitch used in the overlock machine. I use it almost exclusively to sew the jersey.
By adjusting the width and length of your stitch, you can also use the zigzag stitch exclusively if your machine has only the straight stitch and the zigzag stitch.
When you start sewing, don’t forget to help your machine by pulling the two threads back, it will save you a lot of inconvenience! Some machines are greedy and swallow and damage the fabric.
Stop a seam
For an even more breathtaking result, I never make a back stitch on the machine to start or finish a seam. I leave about 10 cm of thread at the beginning and end of a seam, I take a needle, I thread the thread that protrudes on the right side, I pass it on the wrong side, I tie it with the thread that protrudes on the wrong side and I cut the excess thread.
The rolled hem
For silk or satin babydolls, if you have patience, you can make a rolled hem. This is the finish used on Hermès squares, it gives an incredible cachet to your garment.
Now that you have all the knowledge to sew lace, don’t wait any longer, get started! And if you have any other tips, let me know in commentary so I can learn even more. Have you ever sewn lace? 🙂